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As the three of us morbidly pondered the fact that 11 deaths had just made 2006 the second-worst season ever, we were half-listening to chatter filtering down from the summit on Kami's radio congratulatory whoops announcing the final top-outs of the season.Kami had dialed to a channel used by New Zealand based Adventure Consultants, one of the largest commercial expeditions on the south side, when a young climbing Sherpa named Lakpa Tharke broke in to announce that he had an important message for his boss, Ang Tsering, the company's head Sherpa, or sardar.Beneath those flags sprawled an alpine metropolis of more than a thousand people crammed into some 250 tents that had been stocked with 3,000 yakloads of gear, food, and medical equipment (and which required a resupply of 200 additional yakloads every two weeks).The 27 expeditions spread along this half-mile strip had turned the place into a cross between a Central Asian bazaar and a pre-Christmas Play Station sale at Wal-Mart.From the other side of Base Camp, Ang Tsering keyed his radio and replied, "Five minutes? "Oh, and please be sure to note," Tharke added, "I am not doing this for the record. "Look around you," he continued, waving his arm in a sweeping arc that seemed to encompass not only Base Camp and the mountain looming above it but all the events silly, heroic, tragic, and farcical that had unfolded in this surreal outpost during the previous month."People come up here and they feel like they can do whatever they like," he declared. I have no idea what to think about anything anymore."Could you please inform our liaison officer that Lakpa Tharke, 25, from the village of Phortse, has just posed naked on the summit for five minutes?" "This is a really bad idea," Kami said after translating the remarks into English. " His skepticism was swiftly echoed as Sherpas all over the mountain began transmitting their own opinions. "He could be doing this as a temperature experiment, a stunt, a personal statement. He could have said anything other than that." "Hey, Kami," I interjected, "this business of being naked on the summit would that be considered an offense to the gods of Everest? " Kami barked, one of the few signs of exasperation he'd let slip in the 25 days we'd been together.

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